Friday night, the 5 of us English Ed folks (the Lit Clique, if you will) met up at Mary and Dani’s place with all our stuff. From there, we crammed into a taxi and I’m sure the taxi driver thought we were drunk or something (we weren’t) because we were being so silly. Our excitement was practically tangible in that taxi – we had been waiting for this day for so long. I kept saying how I wanted to find a monkey-slave to carry all my luggage and we were talking about how ridiculous we were all going to look in our rainforest gear.
We get to the Esmeralda bus station where we met the rest of the group – 17 total of student teachers, teachers from CM and some of their friends. We stow our big backpacks in the bottom of the bus and pile on for the long haul. And boy, was it long. 8 hours long. The bus was pretty nice and we all got to sit fairly close to each other but it didn’t really matter because we “slept” most of the time. The bus left Quito at around 11 p.m. and we arrived in Lago Agrio at 6:30 a.m. I say “slept” because it was a challenge to do – what with the Jean-Claude Van Damme movie going on, or afterwards the loud, incessant beat of the reggaton/salsa music playing through the speakers. The music completely confuses me. Who wants to listen to that while they’re trying to sleep? Obviously, they know we are trying to sleep because they’ve turned off all the light in the bus… chalked it up to one of Ecuador’s mysteries (thank goodness I had my iPod).
Aaron was my bus buddy on the way down there which was good – he’s skinny and is scare to touch girls (haha, jk). I think pretty much all of us tossed and turned on the bus, trying to get as comfortable as possible on the seats as well as trying to get comfortable with drastic variety in temperature – first cool, then hot, then A.C. cold.
Finally we arrive in Lago Agrio, an oil town about 4 hours away from our destination. Kelly, the CM woman who organized the trip, scared the begeeshes out of me about this town. She said that this was no tourist town by any means and to make sure and watch our stuff carefully. The bus dropped us off directly at the nicest hotel there where we had breakfast. Oh man, and it was so good. Best tasting scrambled eggs, bread and coffee I’ve ever had (and I don’t drink coffee). We sat around, taking turns going to the bathroom to freshen up and waiting for our next bus. Mostly we watched our surroundings. The town was a sad little place – very industrial looking with run-down buildings. Most of the people were your average Ecuadorians or – ironically – tourists, obviously on their way to the rainforest as well. I think some were gringos but I believe others were perhaps from another Spanish-speaking country, and from Germany.
Our bus sent by the lodge finally shows up around 8ish and off we go into the jungle. I’m sad to say but by this time, I was in terrible pain. I had a pounding headache and my stomach was not at all happy with me – so much for the wonderful scrambled eggs and coffee. For the next 2 hours I just tried to bear the pain and tuned in and out of our tour guide’s explanations. He said that we were currently on the “toxic trip” to the forest – from the rainforest all the way to the coast were oil pipes. You could actually see these rusted large pipes running through large cow fields or through the forest with palm trees scattered about.
He went on to explain the history of the area. (I’m doing this from my memory so I’ll try and be as accurate as possible) The Ecuadorian government was realizing how crowded other cities and other areas were getting so they decided to relocate people to the rainforest – with such rich foliage they thought that they would have some success at agriculture. They actually dropped people down in the rainforest in helicopters. Well, turns out it wasn’t such a great idea. The soil isn’t very good at all, surprisingly, for crops. This is why along the way we kept seeing open fields sporadically – these are places were their failed attempts.
Another problem with the people living in the rainforest was that the communities didn’t have any skilled laborers of any kind –they had a very hard time getting simple things. He had specific reasons for why the education was so poor, which unfortunately I forgot. Suffice it to say, not only are the inhabitants poor but they are also poorly formally educated.
Most of the scenery was jungle, fields, cows, and family shacks with their laundry hanging out to dry. We passed through an even sadder, smaller town than Lago Agrio that had decorations out for Carnival – I felt like I was in last scene of the movie “To Wung Foo, Thanks for Everything,” where the town is basically just one main dusty street of stores and yet they have festive decorations up that look strange next to the dull brown colors of the town.
Finally we got to the edge of the reserve where we signed in. Then we piled our luggage in these long, narrow, motorized canoes; we piled ourselves in as well – 2 people to a bench.
We took 2 hours meandering down this Amazonian river searching for wildlife. The first thing we saw was the butterflies. Big, electric blue butterflies which stand-out so drastically against all the brown and green kept floating by. They move so fast it was hard to get a picture which is such a pity; they’re so beautiful.
Soon enough, we saw our first sighting of monkeys. Throughout the trip, we saw many monkeys several other times but nothing compares to that first time – just the excitement and realization that holy crap, I’m in the freakin’ AMAZON RAINFOREST and I’m watching monkeys play and jump from tree to tree in their natural habitat. It’s an unreal feeling. I wish I could remember all the information our guide told us – it’s just impossible to remember because I was so inundated with so much info. I do remember one of the types of monkeys we saw was called a “titi” monkey.
We traveled down the river a little bit more just taking in the sunshine and the breeze from the speed. We kept scanning the lush trees looking for sloths, birds, monkeys and jaguars. We scanned the river looking for anacondas, pink nosed river dolphins or fish. We were hopeful and desperate to see as much as we could.
Finally we stopped the boat and our guide pointed to the very tops of some trees – there were saw the most beautiful birds, McCaws.
These birds are big bright blue and green creatures that mate for life. If one of their mates dies, they never find another. As we were studying these birds, we heard some noises. Our guide said they were howler monkeys – the biggest monkeys in the Amazon. That was a cool moment.
After traveling down the river we came to the Big Lagoon (Laguna Grande). Kelly had told us that 3 weeks ago the entire lagoon was dried but now, it was completely filled. I literally cannot imagine how this lagoon could ever ever be completely dried – it was so huge! All around the edges of the lagoon (keep in mind we couldn’t see it in its entirety) were these beautiful trees – much different from the trees that were on the edge of the river.
We were only in the Big Lagoon for about 10 or so minutes when we finally arrived at the lodge. We drove right up to the muddy shore and climbed the wooden steps to the main lodge. There we were greeted by Alberto; he was handing out lemonades to everyone. I knew then that I would really, really like this place. We took our lemonade and went under the shade of the large thatched hut to lay in one of the 5 hammocks. I kept joking that I thought they spiked the lemonade or something. I can’t remember the last time I felt so relaxed and peaceful. It was utter bliss … as cheesy as it sounds. It’s the true.
Surprisingly, I felt that peaceful even in the sweltering heat. They said that it was the hottest it’s been in a long time – for us, it felt just like August in Georgia. Well above the 90’s and thick with humidity. So we decided to go swimming in the lagoon to cool off. Our guide and boat driver took us out to the middle of the lagoon and we jumped right in. The water is a strange combination of cold and warm. The cold is the currents that come from the Andeans and the warm is the rest of the lagoon water that gets the sun all day. If you floated at the top, you would only get the warm water. If you kept moving you would get the best of both worlds. The water was pretty deep (though not impossible to find the bottom – one of the guides got a rock to prove it can be done. However no one in HELL wanted to try it). It was deep enough that we had to keep treading water and soon enough we were exhausted (as if we weren’t already) so we decided to head back. But of course, not before the boat driver made jokes about seeing an anaconda.
I should mention, the 17 of us was not the whole group. The other teachers and friends of teachers were coming by plane (they had heard about the long, restless bus ride) but they were expected to be at the lodge until 3. By the time they showed up, we were lounging on the deck chairs in the sun, drying off our bathing suits and drinking cervasas. I’m telling you – living the dream.
Later Kelly put us in groups with names like the Jaguars or the Anacondas (there were 4 groups with about 8 per group – large group of teachers, eh?). All the girl student teachers were put in one group and we were called the Mona Mujers – the Monkey Women! We also met our guide and boat drive for the entire trip – Daniel and Nasario. She also assigned rooms – me, Mary and Dani had a hut in the back of the compound with, thank heavens, our own little nice bathroom and shower.
The huts were absolutely charming.
Also thatched with an open-air design. There were bamboo shutters covering the openings (windows) in the main room which also held 3 twin beds. Hovering over the beds were our mosquito nets – Kevin said that he when he set his up for the night he felt like he was in a Victorian marriage bed. In our bathroom was another “window” looking into the jungle; you could barely make out the water of the lagoon past the trees. Let me telling you, there is something a bit strange but thrilling about peeing in a bathroom with tiles on the floor, 4 walls (well 3 and a shower curtain) and a ceiling, yet feeling like you’re still outside too.
After we got settled in, we went out for a sunset ride in our boat. We tried to see pink-nosed river dolphins but we could only see places where they once were out of the water. Apparently, these dolphins are freaky looking and it’s hard to get a chance to see them. I learned that they can’t see underwater and they use sonar to find their prey.
After we watched the beautiful sunset, everyone started to jump in the water. Our boat didn’t know we were going to swimming so we decided to all jump in with our clothes. Only in the Amazon once, right?
Afterwards, we went back to the lodge for dinner. For every meal, there were multiple courses and you never knew what you were going to get – we always were sitting there literally on the edge of our seats wondering. 90% of it was absolutely amazing. I think the only times I didn’t like something was when they served something that I don’t eat, like beans. One day we had some beef with this mushroom cream sauce over it. Another time we had almost crystallized fried potatoes – very difficult to explain; I’ve never had anything like it. But it was so good. And I tried ceviche for the first time.
YUUUM. I believe that is Ecuador’s most well-known dish (I don’t know if that’s official but I do know that it’s a very popular typical dish here). I’ve heard ceviche described as a soup-salad. The kind I had was tuna and it is similar to a soup but it’s not thin enough but neither is it thick enough to be called a stew. The kind I had was seasoned with lemon juice and cilantro. Ceviche is typically served with popcorn and you’re supposed to put it in your bowl and eat it together.
After a delicious and cozy dinner (the lighting was dimmed and each table had a candle lit in the middle) us Monkeys went out for a night boat ride. It was so much fun and a bit creepy at the same time. Here we are in the middle of a huge lagoon surrounded by random trees and our boat guide is perfectly comfortable maneuvering around in the pitch-black dark. Think about it – there is nothing really around for miles that has a significant amount of light. I kept getting this urge to dip my fingers in the water because it was so peaceful but at the same time I got this image of caimans trying to bite off the tips of my fingers. Caimans were one of the things we were on the search for. We eventually found a baby caiman hiding in some trees. You can spot them by the reflection of their red eyes off our flashlights. We also saw some night birds this way.
My favorite thing about this boat ride (and quite possibly on this whole trip) was seeing the stars. Everyone should see stars like this at some point of your life. I felt like Simba in the Lion King when his father shows him the stars. I have never seen so many in my life. I felt like I was in a planetarium; it felt so unreal. The stars looked so close I felt like I could have stretched out my hands and touch them. Once again, I remember looking at the stars (I couldn’t stop looking) and thinking about how amazed I was at how ridiculously relaxed I was.
Once we got back to shore, we were completely read for our beds. I tucked in my mosquito net and immediately conked out. I can’t remember the last time I had slept so hard.